Santa Barbara Shines On

SUMMER IS THE TIME TO REVISIT THE GREAT RESTAURANTS—AND DISCOVER SOME NEW TREATS— IN ONE OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA’S BEST BEACH TOWNS

Next door to the Frech-leaning Bouchon is the purely Italian OLIO E LIMONE, owned by Elaine Morello and her Sicilian husband, chef Alberto Morello. Jovial Elaine handles the front of the house-an elegant little dinning room with ivory and sage walls and window shades the color of olive leaves. Alberto runs the kitchen in accordance with his gastronomic credo, which is printed on the menu: “Nothing in the food world is better than the natural embrace between the olive and the lemon.” And Santa Barbarans and itinerant foodies alike have naturally embraced Alberto’s fine cooking, among them local resident Julia Child, who has been known to stop by.

Main Courses here are sumptuous: Duck breast comes with figs and balsamic demi-glace, and beef tenderloin is drizzled with truffle oil and served on a crisp potato tart with arugala and Parmesan. As for desert, the pear in puff pastry covered with an intense carmel sauce is a satisfying finale.